Day 33 - Along Utah’s Spine: A Journey Through Stone and Sky

October 21st, 2025

We slept like babies that night after our delicious cowboy dinner. When we woke up, the morning was bright and crisp. The King headed into the RV park office and gift shop to pay for our stay and pick up a few souvenirs.

While there, I met Mary and Ken Twitchell—truly wonderful people who genuinely love their not-so-little slice of heaven. Ken’s parents bought the ranch back in the 1940s, and Ken and Mary took over in the late ’80s. Today, the ranch spans more than 600 acres, with 150 head of cattle, a small herd of horses, and assorted animals. During the pandemic, they expanded operations to include a 25-acre RV and Horse Park.

Everything was spotless and shipshape. Horse trails crisscross the entire ranch (I only wished I had a horse!). The King purchased a hat for his bald royal head, and soon we were back on America’s spectacular Highway 12.

Our next stops: Escalante (40 miles) and Capitol Reef (another 80+ miles). Highway 12 lived up to its reputation as we passed ranches and breathtaking scenery. As we approached Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument, the landscape turned almost desert-like.

Covering nearly 1.9 million acres in southern Utah, the monument features cliffs, canyons, plateaus, and badlands. Established in 1996, it is known for its remarkable geology and colorful rock formations that tell a story millions of years in the making. It’s also renowned for major dinosaur discoveries that continue to attract researchers and visitors alike.

Another 80 miles later, the royals found ourselves zigzagging up the side of a steep canyon onto what’s known as Hell’s Backbone. One of Utah’s most scenic backways, this road follows narrow ridgelines with sheer drops on both sides. Built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, it features 1,500-foot drop-offs and views that are equal parts incredible and terrifying.

Thankfully, it was a beautiful, calm day. Still, the Queen hesitated to step out at one vista pull-off and peer down into the valley below. Usually closed in early November due to snow, this road truly lives up to its reputation.

Descending into the canyon, we passed a very cool alpaca ranch.

“Unbelievable,” the King exclaimed. “What a spot for an alpaca ranch!”

Two miles later, we stopped at Hell’s Backbone Lodge, Grill & Farm for lunch. Another beautiful slice of heaven. While ordering at the food truck, we met Kim behind the counter.

“I’ll have two smash burgers with chips and root beer,” I said.
 “Coming up,” she replied.

As I paid, Kim asked where we were from. “Cape Cod,” I said.

“No way! I spent two weeks in Eastham last August visiting relatives,” she told us. “I escaped the Utah heat and loved the Cape beaches.”

I told her next time to come in early fall—September is even better, with fewer crowds and the same great weather.

After lunch, we hit the road again, heading through Capitol Reef National Park toward Duke’s RV Park in Hanksville—about 85 miles away.

Soon we were deep in Capitol Reef, surrounded by massive rock formations and sweeping canyons. The park, covering over 241,000 acres, is known for the Waterpocket Fold, a 100-mile warp in the earth’s crust. Once called “Wayne Wonderland,” it earned its name from white domes resembling the U.S. Capitol and towering cliffs that challenged early travelers.

Early inhabitants called it the “Land of the Sleeping Rainbow” for its stunning contrasts: colorful sandstone, green riverbanks, desert vegetation, and deep blue skies. Designated a national monument in 1937 and a national park in 1971, Capitol Reef feels worlds apart from Zion and Bryce.

Are they even on the same planet? I wondered.

Late in the afternoon, we pushed on another 40 miles and spent the night in Hanksville (which definitely lives up to its name). Soon, the royals rolled through the gate at Duke’s RV Park. Dusty and spartan, it was still a welcome sight in such a remote place—full hookups and all.

At the entrance, we spotted Duke’s restaurant, the Slickrock, and thanked the Lord it was open.

We parked, hooked up, and as the sun set in the west, headed over for some western fare and cold drinks. It doesn’t get much better than this: the King sipping his Moab Brewery beer, the Queen enjoying her Utah-style margarita.

This nomad van life—exploring America—is truly special. The places you see and the people you meet can’t be beat. We’re incredibly grateful that we can finally do this.

Our only regret? We didn’t start sooner.

🤴🇺🇸🍀👸