Day 32 – Hoodoos, Hairpins & Cowboy Barbecue
October 20th, 2025
Early in the morning, the royals are back on the road, climbing the steep hairpin switchbacks out of Zion Canyon. It’s a little hairy navigating our 25’ chariot, but Big T takes it slow and steady, and for the moment, the queen is content to enjoy the view. We’re headed 110 miles (just over two hours) toward Bryce Canyon.
Near the top of the mountain, we approach a tunnel incredibly carved straight through the sandstone. A park ranger stands guard with a stop sign (yes, still working—even with the federal government shut down). He explains the tunnel is one lane only, so we wait for our turn. Before long, we’re cruising through the tunnel—surprisingly long, with windows cut into the sides to let light spill in. Very cool.
When we emerge on the other side, the landscape begins to level out and turn more arid, with fewer mountains in sight. Soon, we pass a horse and cattle ranch: a classic, authentic Western dude ranch. The king immediately declares, “I could live here!” The queen is less convinced—this place is truly in the middle of nowhere. The closest town with decent shopping is Cedar City (population 35K), and it’s more than two hours away.
We continue toward Bryce through absolutely unbelievable topography. Eventually, signs for Bryce Canyon appear, and we stop at a small shopping outpost to fill up on diesel and grab a few groceries. There’s a laundromat out back, so we promptly monopolize three washers and dryers while eating a light lunch in the rig. While there, a local cowboy pulls in with his very loyal, impeccably behaved basset hound riding shotgun in the back of his flatbed. Too cute.
Once the laundry is done, we waste no time getting back on the road toward the entrance of Bryce Canyon National Park. Bryce Canyon in Utah is famous for its unique hoodoos—spire-shaped rock formations—and its massive, horseshoe-shaped amphitheaters carved into the Paunsaugunt Plateau. It’s also known for incredible hiking trails that descend into the hoodoos and for some of the darkest night skies anywhere.
Fun fact: Bryce Canyon isn’t actually a canyon at all, but a series of natural amphitheaters formed by erosion from wind, water, and ice—especially frost wedging. The main feature, Bryce Amphitheater, stretches 12 miles long and plunges 800 feet deep. The park is most known for its collection of hoodoos, colorful spires that have been artfully eroded over millions of years.
Words truly cannot do justice to the beauty of Bryce Canyon. It’s completely different from the sandstone cliffs of Zion. At the highest points, we’re over 9,000 feet in elevation, and in the afternoon sun, the views are stunning in every direction.
We begin our descent out of the park knowing we still have a long drive ahead—35 more miles to Bryce Valley Ranch, our stop for the night. Soon, signs appear for Bryce Valley (population 336), and we pass through town in the blink of an eye. Driving through the gates of Bryce Valley Ranch, we find a beautiful, wide-open RV park set on the edge of a 150-acre cattle and horse ranch. We settle into our Campspot and then head back into town for barbecue at Showdown Restaurant.
Showdown is a seasonal local cowboy–tourist melting pot, and the king and queen agree: the smoked ribs, beans, cornbread, cold beer, and cocktails were excellent—just what the doctor ordered. With full bellies, the sun setting, and big doggie bags for tomorrow’s lunch, we return to the ranch for a well-earned night’s rest.
Tomorrow, we roll on toward Escalante and Canyonlands National Parks, and the dream adventure continues. 🤴❤️👸
