Day 23-Follow Your Nose to Paradise Valley
October 11th, 2025
We wake to cold, damp weather in Livingston and hit the road for a short 52-mile hop to Gardiner, Montana — home to the Yellowstone Hot Springs RV Park, just outside the park entrance.
Yellowstone is the granddaddy of all national parks, spanning the northwest corner of Wyoming with small portions reaching into Montana and Idaho. It was established by the 42nd U.S. Congress and signed into law by President Ulysses S. Grant on March 1, 1872 — making it not only the first national park in the U.S., but widely regarded as the first in the world.
Locals warn that snow is expected in the park, not great news for our 25’ van. Still, we follow the Yellowstone River south through the ranchlands of Paradise Valley, watching fly fishermen cast their lines in the misty light. The clouds begin to break and the sun peeks through, giving us hope that the weather might turn in our favor.
About halfway to Gardiner, we roll into the tiny town of Emigrant (pop. 275) and stop at Follow Your Nose BBQ, a spot recommended by Alex, the bartender at the Owl Lounge. She works the afternoon shift, so we miss her — but we don’t miss out on the food. We grab a full rack of pork ribs, some brisket, and sides “to go” for dinner. Next door, we can’t resist the smell of fresh pastries and pick up homemade breakfast sandwiches and coffee for the road.
When we arrive at Yellowstone Hot Springs, a light mist is falling. We’re greeted by Diane and an old-timer who looks straight out of ZZ Top. “We’re closing tomorrow for the season,” she tells us. I ask, 'What happens if it snows tonight — can we stay an extra day?' She smiles, “We won’t throw you out, but I’m heading to Yuma, Arizona, tomorrow for the winter.”
We settle into our camp spot, change into bathing suits, and head straight for the hot springs. The pools, ranging from 96 to 106 degrees, are absolutely heavenly — steaming against the crisp 42-degree air, with the mountains of Yellowstone rising in the background.
As the sun dips low, we head back to the RV and dig into our BBQ feast. Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Lamar Valley — often called “America’s Serengeti” for its sweeping views, abundant wildlife, and incredible photography opportunities.
With full bellies and warm hearts, we crawl into bed, hoping for no snow tonight, and dream of the wild wonders waiting for us in the morning. 🍀🙏
