Day 22 - The Werewolf of Livingston
Oct 10th, 2025
Our second day in Livingston, MT, is a cold one. At nearly 5,000 feet above sea level, we can feel the climate change — a low of 26° and a high of 42°, with a chance of showers in the evening.
Livingston is a historic railroad town about an hour north of Yellowstone National Park, known for its eclectic blend of artists, cowboys, fishermen, and now, movie stars. Our morning starts slow and easy, but picks up as the day goes on. Jess has a hair appointment at 11 a.m., while I drive around town trying to find a place to wash the rig and get an oil change.
The town hums with activity — traffic rolling by and train horns echoing in the distance. No luck finding a car wash big enough for our van, but I do manage to snag an oil change appointment at Les Schwab for 4 p.m. and top off our propane tank in the meantime.
Jess’s hair appointment goes well (the queen is a happy camper), and by 12:30, we’re strolling the charming streets of downtown Livingston. By 1:00, we stop for a light lunch before heading back to relax and tackle another round of laundry at the RV park.
Later, after an excellent oil change, fluid, and tire check courtesy of the wonderful crew at Les Schwab, we head out to the Owl Lounge — highly recommended by Alexa and Shaun, who’ve spent time in the area on fly-fishing trips. It’s an eclectic watering hole with deep neighborhood roots.
Behind the bar is Alex, who greets us warmly. “I’ve been in town for over five years,” she says, “originally from just north of Tampa, Florida. I love the mountains and wide-open spaces here — Livingston is home for me now.” We tell her about our trip while I sample a local beer and the queen sips her water.
“That’s something I want to do,” Alex says with a smile. She shares a few stories and local tips, and insists we stop at Follow Your Nose Barbecue in Emigrant, MT on our way to Yellowstone, where she also works. “See you there,” I tell her.
We walk a block over to the Fainting Goat for dinner and grab seats at the bar, where Nick is tending. I order my favorite shepherd’s pie, and Jess goes for a bowl of French onion soup. A guy named Robert sits down next to me, tips his hat, and asks what I’m drinking. I tell him it’s the local Katabatic Brewing Pale Ale. He orders one too, and we start chatting.
Turns out Robert is in town for a movie shoot — about werewolves. He’s a stuntman who’s been playing werewolves for years. “It’s kind of my niche,” he laughs. “The Chinese love werewolf movies. And the money’s pretty good too.” He even shows us photos of himself in costume.
“What a job,” I say, finishing my delicious “Western Irish” shepherd’s pie.
We head back to the RV park and tuck in for the night. Rain is in the forecast for Livingston — and maybe snow in Yellowstone. Next stop: Gardiner Hot Springs, camping along the Yellowstone River. We can’t wait. 🐺🍺😎
Click to play the video above^ Robert, the stuntman being transformed into a werewolf.
