Day 13 - Horseradish, Highways, and Heartland Hospitality

October 1st, 2025

Absolute sunflower heaven — miles of golden blooms grown just for their seeds. Meg we instantly thought of you :)

In the morning, we leave Devils Lake, North Dakota, for a 160+ mile trek west, rolling past miles and miles of farms and ranches toward our next destination: Coleharbor, near Lake Sakakawea, North Dakota.

Lake Sakakawea is the largest man-made lake in North America, created by the Army Corps of Engineers to harness hydroelectric power from the headwaters of the Missouri River — an impressive feat of engineering.

Before heading to our waterfront campsite at Lake Sakakawea State Park, we stop for an early dinner at the Coleharbor Bar & Grill — perched off the highway overlooking open fields (not water). It’s about as close to “waterfront dining” as you can get in these parts, lol.

Inside, we meet the owner, Mindy — a modern-day Annie Oakley with a bright smile and a twinkle in her eye. She bought the bar and grill eight years ago from her mother, who ran the place for many years before her. Mindy tells us she spent some time in Montana but eventually came back home to be closer to her mom.

As we’re chatting and eating our burgers, an old-timer cowboy strolls in and sits down next to Jess. He hands Mindy a small jar of homemade horseradish, and soon the three of them are deep in conversation about Bloody Mary recipes. When it’s time to settle the bill, Mindy surprises Jess with her own little container of that homemade horseradish, and I buy the cowboy another PBR before we head out. Gotta love small-town folks.

We drive the final 15 miles west along the lake to the park, which is nearly empty, and find our campsite right on the water — a perfect spot overlooking the vast lake coastline. The weather’s been warm the whole trip, and today’s no exception, with temps in the 80s.

As the sun sets over the lake, another day’s adventure is in the books.